One thing I have never had, or have particularly cared for, is a shape that sits between the short and the long. It wasn't until after two very specific sessions that left me feeling frustrated in my choice of equipment that I decided to think about the spaces between.
Spot 1 doesn't have a long take off zone, it has a tight entry point, followed by a spiralling bowl that eventually gets fat which then re aligns with the reef to grind on through the inside. It barely gets shoulder high here and a lot of waves are blown by crew riding boards that can't handle the take off or the speed in the trim, I am one of those people sometimes. On this day, I was happy with the back hand take off too trim but I felt I missed sections as I couldn't get the 9'6 to grunt down the line when needed. The 9'6 is shaped perfectly and does what it is supposed too on waves that facilitate her generous curves but this spot needs a board (and a rider) that can move to the beat more in time.
The second spot that set the wheels in motion is a distant reef break that has a great take off zone which lets you get to your feet early, set your line, attempt a head dip and then do as you please down the line. This day at spot 2 had a stiff offshore that faded cross half way through the session, which put the 9'6 in all sorts of awkward places that she didn't want to be in. Time spent underwater bouncing across the reef gives you moments to think about how you got into the predicament in the first place.
Reflecting on spot 1 and 2, I wanted to sit deeper, not further out. I wanted to grab a rail from take off, trim at full speed, milk fat sections, turn from the tail, perch over the front half, burst through chop and paddle with ease. Sounds like too much to ask?
Rory took my 9'6 and a favourite shortboard and joined them in some weird, illegal in most states style of marriage. The nose outline of my fav log, plenty of volume through the torso, slowly pulled in round tail, single too flat to double concave, 6'6' single fin with side bites if needed.
‘See how you go and let’s refine it from there' said Rory.
Take 1.
